Costume

Costume, the dress and clothing of humans and humanlikes, has changed through the millennia. Clothing indicates social class, profession, cultural and ethnic derivation, and the whims of fashion. Military persons and servants of the state also dress in distinctive costume to show their position and function. Wizards and priests since ancient time have worn special costume. Most cultures have separate clothing for men and women, and often for children.

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Pre-Yophenthean Costume

Dwarven Codpieces

Obiba: word from Dúrandwor (Thrain); a kind of draped mantel from ancient times, possibly inspired by Midretassene dress

Early Yophenthean Empire, 300 to 550

• Emperor

Iseamber Crown high headwear, similar to crown of upper Egypt, seam dividing front from back (coronal). Front is white, seam wraps like a band from side up to the top and down to the other side, polished gold. Back has peculiar quilted, gilding lines, prong comes down from sides in front of ears against face, where the sideburns would be with stylized, gilded hair. Stylized Sun disk on front of crown, just over forehead. Crown made of finished, stiffened fabric, gold leaf, and metallic frame.

Guheava prosthetic beard worn on face of gold foil, resembling closely cropped beard and moustache.

Bardorga rod with flattened disk atop, round face displayed forward, solid gold, set on torus molding, followed by spread, gilded wings, similar to Zoroastrian wings, followed by more peculiar molding, spiral roping, then fluted shaft and then smooth shaft very gently diminishing in size to a polished bronze ball at the base. The lower shaft was made of polished ivory. The overall length of the rod was three to four feet and held in the right hand of the sun emperor, unless his right hand was occupied holding something else, in which case, he transferred the rod to his left hand

High Yophenthean Empire, 550 to 840

• Men's Costume

Drinca

Safoth

• Women's Costume

Late Yophenthean Empire,840 to 1000

• Men's Costume

Rhogarion

• Women's Costume

Thíamu: under-tunic

Sclaiva: worn over the thíamu

High Chaotic Baroque, 2000 to 2290

Themes: Chaos, Abandon, Revivification of Life men: slashed jerkin over doublet, breeches, hose, slippers, feathered cap; ruffs; slops; panes and slashes women: hooped skirts under dresses (farthingales) Both: ruffs begin ca 2310 Colors: bright colors of crimson, gold, turquoise;

Late Chaotic Baroque, Isbajutha, 2290 to 2350

Both: continuance of the ruff Themes: Dominion, Cruelty, Sombre Reflection, Introspection, Oppression Colors: Reds, Gold, Black, Silver, Copper

Neo-Arathracian, Incarnandist, 2350 to 2445

Themes: Reaction against Chaos; religious fervor; liberation; return to conservative heritage; law and order; penitence; modesty

• Men's

Rhoary: (Dalmatic, no buttons, opens in front long, close-fitting sleeves); ruffles or lace on collar, cuffs; worn outside the waistcoat.

Waistcoat: long, close-fitting, no sleeves, worn under the rhoary

Pantaloons: somewhat full

footwear: slippers or boots, covered at top by pantaloons

• Women's

Medibgóëse, 2445 to 2505

At this time, Medibgö dictates fashion to the greater world and continues to do so for licensed wizards in and from Pytharnia.

• Men's Costume

Svigask: Dalmatic (long sleeved, long drape to ankles);

Contrasting Jerkin; fitted, added, accentuated shoulders; Jerkin worn outside at beginning period — replaced by llwmbur, a kind of waistcoat worn inside the svigask at the end of the period.

Ffwrsva: skullcap for wizards, still de rigueur for Pytharnian wizards of any standing

Llwmbur: long, sleeved waistcoat

• Women's Costume

Thracian, 2505 to 2580

Themes: Kalikán Wars, Geddamin Wars; Liberation from Thrace; clean lines, medium weight, strong, pure, masculine

• Men's Costume

Gorcorumb Coat:Similar to a great coat ("brandenburg") of the late 17th century

• Women's Costume

New Nationalism, 2580 to 2630 (High Bijälish, 2575 to 2626)

Themes: New Nationalism; Post-Kalikán Rule; Newly discovered Titancraft Technologies; Aurice and Asbardy lead fashion; tech-looking clothes; combination of gear and clothing;

• Men's Costume

Thraven Coat, compare justaucorps ca 1750's to 1780's; stand color, richly embroidered with abstract shapes down both sides of front opening and vents of back, on cuffs, and on collars; pocket flaps in the shape of a squat, down-pointed shield

New Throvian or New Aurician, 2630 to 2690

Asbardian Pickelhaube Dragon Knight Helmets

New Imperial, 2690 to 2740

Boosbot Coat: long coat, like a cassock to shins, but with double rows of buttons, sort of like a Belgian Military Chef's uniform, stand up collar, padded shoulders

Boosbotine Coat: a shorter version of the Boosbot Coat

Modern, 2740 to present

MODERN FASHION of the WEST In the 2700’s, there are two fashion leaders in the core Pallathantic: Trevirs & Johaulia. Trevirs is the fashion center for southern Pytharnia. Asbardy follows Trevirite fashion with its own particular nuances. Johaulia is the contrasting fashion leader for Corundy and Throvy. Tinchozzo and Ferruvicar follow Johaulian fashion. Ithatia has native costumes that the lower orders wear. Upper class Ithatians wear Johaulian clothes, but conscientiously avoiding Aurician styles. Thracians wear their own fashions, but the more fashion-conscious wear Trevirite fashion. Other states of the High Jaggudorns are similar, with the fashion-conscious follwoing Trevirite costume and the working classes wearing traditional local costumes. Erserce has its own traditional dress, but the upper classes follow Aurician fashion. Ambrinquans (Ebinóëse and Gorcorumbese) wear native costumes, respectively with upper class Ebinóëse wearing Johaulian fashion. Gorcorumbese generally do not follow human fashion. Erechórebese follow Trevirite fashion, but often adopt the Asbardian style or adopt it to their own Erechórebese style. Nymenthonese fashion is a mixture of Erechórebese and their own traditional dress. Xsys follows Trevirite fashion with some notable native components.

In southern Barathorn, Amerzcelindo, and Umbardia, fashion is dictated largely by Dewyddair with many variations. Dewyddair fashion is in turn heavily influenced by Trevirite fashion.

Ambrinquan fashion differs mainly between the Ebinóëse subjects, the Thammazic nations, and the Gorcorumbese Giants. In Thyria (Khesheph, Jerushabla, Zoham, Narshad), fashion is similar to fashion in northern Weshif. Fashion in Kingdom of Shagrela’al, is similar to Weshif with some characteristic native distinctions.

Trevirite Costume

Trevirite men wear a long sherwani-like coat, high-waisted trousers, socks, and shoes or boots. Under the sherwani-like coat, they wear a waistcoat that edge hangs just below the high waist of the trousers. Under the waistcoat, they wear a long-sleeve shirt.

A calico jacket over a white chemise are the basic upper components of a Trevirite woman’s outfit. The jacket is long for formal occasions and winter and short for informal occasions in the summer. Trevirite women wear a dress that hangs to the knees or down to the ankles. This dress may have layers of flounces on it. A petit coat beneath the dress gives it some body. Long stockings and slippers complete the outfit. Hair is worn up or down, depending upon the formality, with hair worn up being mandatory for any formal occasion.

Johaulian Costume

• Men's

Johaulian fashion for men dictates a wide-sleeved kaftan over a long, sleeved waistcoat and full pantaloons. The kaftan can be simple or elaborate, depending on the circumstance and the means of the wearer, and light or heavy depending upon the season. The kaftan has a stand up collar and extends down to the middle of the shins or to the feet and is typically worn open, except during cold weather when it is closed with a cloth belt. The waistcoat has fifteen or sixteen buttons, sleeves, and extends to the middle of the thighs. The waistcoat sometimes has a stand up collar, but only if the kaftan does. A simple tunic-style white shirt is usually worn under the waistcoat, except for the working poor who either wear a linen or cotton waistcoat in the place of the tunic shirt or wear a tunic shirt without the waistcoat. Pantaloons are worn with slippers or boots. Since the waistcoat comes down to the mid-thigh, the pantaloons are not so voluminous to cause the waistcoat to swell out in an ungainly manner. A long belt that hangs after its closure is worn around the waistcoat. The hat is a moderately high, round, cylindrical, brimless cap with a round, moderatly flat top that fits snugly on the head. The outside material is usually felted and it is typically a dark color, such as black or navy blue.

• Women's

Johaulian women wear a white chemise which extends to the knees or mid shins. Over this, they wear pantaloons, the more formal, the more voluminous. The pantaloons cover the lower end of the chemise up to the waist. A wide cloth cincture wraps over the chemise at the waist. Over the chemise, drapes a kaftan-like coat that reaches to the knees or slippers. This coat buttons from the neck down to about the waist in the front. It has slits on either side to about the waist. The sleeves are long, two piece, and fitted. The robe typically lacks a collar. The woman wears a wrap around the neck, similar to a cloth choker which covers more of the neck the more formal the outfit is. In the summer, the robe is replaced by a short, long-sleeved jacket (compare a calico) which ends at the natural waist (navel). Lately, the fashion has been for the jacket to be buttoned at the top only and opening down to reveal a brocade or embroidered chemise underneath. Slippers are worn with knee-high stockings. Hair is worn long with an adornment of flowers, usually artificial on the top front of the hair. In formal occasions, the hair is more elaborately ornamented, but still worn down. Typically, only women of high station, such as high priestesses, aristocrats, and government officers will wear hair up and usually only in formal occasions. The High Phœnissa of Aurice and the Phœnissæ, for example, wear their hair up when officiating or representing their offices.

ITHATIAN

Working class and rural Ithatian men wear very full pantaloons, often made of heavy cloth. They wear a wide-brimmed had that resembles a papal saturno, but not rising so much in the middle. They wear a long sleeved somewhat fitted shirt over a very short waistcoat (compare civil war z?). Traditional Ithatian women wear conical hats that attach by means of a strap around the chin. These hats are made out of leather or heavy cloth. Upper class Ithatians wear Johaulian clothes, but conscientiously avoiding Aurician styles.

MILITARY UNIFORMS

Military uniforms are descended from uniforms worn in the New Kalikán Empire which broadly resemble the justaucorps, long waistcoat, and breeches of early 18th century France. There are generally three or four kinds: parade/full dress, court dress (usually officers only), combat dress, working dress. In some cases, there is no difference between full dress and court dress. Military costumes have variations for respective service branches (army, navy, skyforce, marines).

Aurician Military

Plumed Helm

The Aurician Empire consists of a rich cobalt blue great coat, trousers, boots, and a helmet similar to a Roman helmet, with horse hair crest. Dress uniform includes a metallic breastplate for officers who also wear larger, more distinctive horse hair crest on their helmets.

The power and prestige of the Aurician Skyforce has earned itself as the model for most other skyforces with local variants. Aurician skytroopers wear a short coat with high collar, shoulder emblems, large cuffs. Full dress helmet is a round, visored cap with feathered wing emblens on either side. Officer helmets have a feather plumage on the front top in addition to the metal side wings. Asbardian and Erechórebese skytroopers wear pickelhaube helmets (full dress or parade).

Magdalan Empire

The Magdalan Empire consists of military tunic, trousers, boots, and helmet (round visor with metal strap on top, emblem on front, high, rounding cap, imitation fur crest on top).

Agogian Military

Agogian Mounted Gendarmes wear a belted military tunic-style uniform with a stand collar, wearing a leather hide (often of wyvern hide) beret cap and metallic badge on front. The uniform is forest green with red piping.

Dragonmount Knights

Dragonmount Knights (“Dragonfolk”) wear distinctive costumes with variations throughout southern Pytharnia and southern Barathorn. There are three types of uniforms: combat, parade (full dress or court dress for officers), working (which is for training and non-combat duty). The outfit can also be divided between historic (broadly before 2590 AI) and modern. The basic outfit is studded leather, chosen for its lightness over metallic armor and its relative flexibility. Helmet is also metal, but leaves the face open to prevent restriction on the rider’s vision. Asbardian (Bryndydine) dragonriders are known for their distinctive pickelhaube helmet. Most dragon knights have a sabre, a dagger, a pistol, and a carbine.

Types of Units: lancers, hussars, honor guard, mounted cavalry, dragoons, light cavalry, skytroopers, cossacks, cuirassers,

PROFESSIONAL UNIFORMS

Wizards of southern Pytharnia and some other areas, sometime after the Isbajutha wear a distinctive costume of skullcap and robe up to the time of Agdonius Teolain who gradually abolishes it. The skullcap has metallic ornamental feathered wings to indicate noble status. After the time of Teolain, only Medibgö retains the wizard costume.

Pytharnian and Pytharnian-trained: ffwrsva; svigask; llwmbur long, sleeved waistcoat

SAMTP

Members of SAMTP wear a distinctive uniform. The working uniform differs from the engineer or high engineer uniform.

HIERATIC UNIFORMS

Arathracian costume is widely recognizable throughout the Pallathantic region. Their costumes vary based on office and somewhat on local variations. Office dinstinctions include: Sunfather, Holy Senator, Archpatriarch, Patriarch, Parish Priest, Deacon. Dress for officiating in the sacraments, for presiding and court dress, and every day working differ from each other. Lower ranking priests in sacramental dress wear the (headdress), a dalmatic (close-fitting, long sleeves, soft-structured, cuffless, two piece sleeves with rounded sleeve opening, front has sixteen buttons for the sixteen months of the Arathracian calendar, no collar, hem falls to mid thigh and has a conical increase, beginning from around the chest.

HUMANLIKE COSTUME

Dwarven costume generally differs on status and role in society. Expatriot dwarves often adopt the local human costume.

Mimbbukes (halflings of southern Pytharnia) wear a mixture of their traditional costumes and the current, local fashion (Trevirite).

Elven costume rarely ever follows human fashion and differs from region to region. Elves of the Disdrire wear soft clothes such as belted tunics, robes, and fabric caps.

Obiba: word from Dúrandwor (Thrain); a kind of draped mantel from ancient times, possibly inspired by Midretassene dress

Ensembles

♦ shalwar, kameez, kaftan, kufi, slipper boots, ♦ pantaloons, long waistcoat, open dalmatic (similar to 18th century frock coat), slippers ♦ shirt, waistcoat, frock coat, breeches, shoes, bicorne ♦ pantaloons, loose shirt, small vest, kufi, slippers ♦ knickers, loose shirt, zouave, beret, short boots, ♦ pantaloons, long waistcoat, open dalmatic (long, close-fitting sleeves, round tapered sleeve ends, no cuffs, high stand collar), robe, slippers ♦

Archival

• Men's Costume

Gavant Trousers: billowy trousers, cuffed high above ankle or a little more than half-way down shin, stockings visible

Shamot Hat: pillbox hat, no visor, no brim; richly embroidered on sides; no tassel on top, flat or slightly convex top, sometimes with fat bead at middle of top;

Strundees: high-waisted Knickerbockers (compare 'breeks') to mid-shin, inspired by pants worn by Aurician infantry on the eastern frontier;

Talifish Shamot Hat: or Simply Talifish: a pillbox hat with a slight flare at the rim of the crown;

Teffcorren Jacket: Short Coat (ends at waist), high arm-scye, stand-up collar, short cuffs, usually single-breasted; embroidered up front, around collar and sometimes on shoulders; Short Vest (ends at waist);

• Women's Costume

Samoyal: high-waisted dress; light corsets; fitted bodice

hairstyles: long and flowing, hair ornaments

• Wizards

Pytharnian and Pytharnian-trained: ffwrsva; svigask; llwmbur long, sleeved waistcoat

Incarnandist

Incarnandina

Formal and Semi-formal costume consists of a black hat like a 'saturno' but with an even broader brim, black robe with fitted shoulders, many slits from about waist down (four pieces in back, four in front), cloth cincture; on certain holy days when making observances, the costume is identical, but white; materials are usually cotton or linen.

Incarnandist on holy day

Most Incarnandists do not wear a special costume, except for monastics or those making holy observances, such as on a holy day. On such days, the Incarnandist wears a robe of drab brown, tan, or white.

Aurician Senator

When present for meetings of the Senate, the Senator (almost always men) wears a very flowing loose robe, usually of brocade (hierarchs) or velvet (aristocrats), trimmed with fur. The Great Curial Hall can be a bit drafty in the winter.

List of Textiles and Dyes

• Gensk Linen
• Imridsul
• Yuncovit

List of Costumes, Garments

• Drinca
• Dwarven Codpieces
• Ffwrsva
• Gorcorumb Coat
• Iseamber Crown
• Llwmbur
• Rhabufely
• Rhogarion
• Safoth
• Svigask
• Thíamu
• Thraven Coat

See Also

• Art Periods of the Pallathantic Region
• https://docs.google.com/document/d/1bqHmR7TNPShNTW3Ebstd9bkozAdiq6objX6Lwcf5mKc/edit